Bourbon Shrimp Chowder

Peel the shrimp. Put the shells in a medium pot with 2 cups of water, the bay leaf, peppercorns and coriander. Bring to a brisk boil and cook down for about ten minutes, until reduced to a half cup, then set aside. In the meantime, chop the shrimp by first slicing them in half the long way, then crosswise into two or three pieces.

Prep and dice all the vegetables. Melt the butter in a large, heavy saucepan and saute the onions, celery, celery root and sweet potato over medium high heat until the onions are translucent and the cubed celery root just lightly browned. Add the bourbon, 1/2 cup of water, corn and salt. Bring to a boil and cook down until the vegetables are tender. There will just be a few tablespoons of liquid left (if that).

Strain the shrimp stock into the pot through a fine sieve. Add the shrimp and the heavy cream and bring just to a simmer over medium heat, stirring frequently. It's done when the shrimp are cooked through and the creamy broth is just at a simmer. Taste for salt and season, if you like, with a bit of white pepper and nutmeg.

The sweetness of the sauteed sweet potato and celery root, along with the rich cream, make this a luxury item. The shrimp stock and bourbon add a lot, but you could easily substitute any brown liquor, including rum, and expect things to work out. I garnished with fresh dill.

I generally buy 16-20 size shrimp, shell on and slit down the back - a style called EZ-Peel. They're too big for a single bite, and I am a fiend for cutting them in half the long way for most dishes. I first noticed this technique in Thai and Vietnamese restaurants - it makes the shrimp curl up into random, tortuous shapes I find attractive, as if they suffered for beauty.